Truss Basics
Types of Roof Trusses: Shapes, Uses and Spans
The main types of roof trusses in plain language: fink, howe, kingpost, cantilever, saltbox, raised-tie and more, with a comparison table.
Read the guideYour truss, drawn to scale
Fink web
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The basics
A roof truss calculator is a planning tool that works out truss height, member lengths, truss count, and lumber quantity from your building span, roof pitch, and chosen truss type. Enter those three numbers and the calculator applies standard rise-over-run geometry to determine how tall the peak sits above the top plate, how long each chord and web member needs to be, and how many trusses your building length requires.
Engineered trusses have replaced traditional rafter framing on most new residential construction. They're built in a factory under quality control, delivered ready to set, and much faster to install, a full roof can go up in a single day with a crane crew, compared to a week or more of on-site rafter and ceiling joist framing (stick-framing (opens in a new tab)).
The calculator does not replace a stamped engineering drawing. Truss manufacturers design and certify every production truss using software built to the American National Standards Institute/Truss Plate Institute 1 (ANSI/TPI 1 (opens in a new tab)) national design standard, and a licensed truss designer or structural engineer signs off on member sizing, connector plates, and bracing before fabrication. What this tool gives is a planning-stage estimate, the geometry and rough lumber list needed to budget a project, compare truss profiles, or talk through options with a manufacturer before requesting stamped drawings.
Hover a part to find it on the truss
Step by step
To get a full truss design, work through three inputs in order.
Choose common, attic, scissor, fink, king post, or shed/mono. This sets which formulas apply, since an attic truss and a shed truss size very differently for the same span.
Building span is the wall-to-wall width in feet, not including overhangs. Pick a roof pitch between 3/12 and 12/12, then add the overhang per side and any raised heel height in inches.
Choose 12", 16", 19.2", or 24" on-center spacing, enter your building length eave-to-eave, and select a load category, standard for asphalt shingle, heavy for tile, slate, or snow, light for metal roofing with low snow load.
Click calculate and the results panel returns truss height, rise, top and bottom chord length, web member count, total trusses needed, and a full lumber cut list (a complete lumber takeoff) with quantities for each member.
Profiles
The maths
Total truss load in pounds equals truss spacing in feet multiplied by truss span in feet multiplied by design load in pounds per square foot (psf). This gives the tributary load, the share of the total roof load resting on a single truss, which is the starting point for sizing lumber and connector plates.
Spacing (on centre)
Truss Load (lb) = Spacing (ft) × Span (ft) × Design Load (psf)
Spacing is the tributary width, how much roof area, measured perpendicular to the truss, each truss picks up. Convert on-center spacing from inches to feet by dividing by 12: 24" OC becomes 2 ft, 16" OC becomes 1.33 ft.
Span is the wall-to-wall building width in feet, not counting overhangs.
Design load combines dead load (opens in a new tab) (the weight of the truss, sheathing, and roofing material, commonly 10-15 psf) and live load (snow or occupancy load, commonly 20-30 psf for standard residential construction). Tile or slate coverings, and higher snow-load regions, push this number up; a structural engineer sets the final figure for your location and roof type.
A 28 ft (8.5 m) span at 24" OC spacing with a standard asphalt shingle design load of 30 psf works out to 2 ft × 28 ft × 30 psf = 1,680 lb (about 762 kg) of load carried by each truss. Switch to 16" OC spacing on the same span and load, and each truss carries roughly 1,120 lb (about 508 kg) instead, tighter spacing spreads the same total roof load across more trusses, so each one carries less.
Why it's used
Roofers, framing contractors, and DIY builders come back to this calculator for a few practical reasons.
Enter your numbers and get a full truss design instantly. No account, no email, no paywall between you and your results.
Working out truss height, chord lengths, and lumber quantities by hand takes a framing square, several pages of math, and time most contractors don't have during a bid. This calculator returns the same numbers in seconds, which means faster estimates and a quick answer when a client asks whether a design will clear the ridge mid-conversation.
The lumber cut list breaks out every member, top chord, bottom chord, and web pieces, by quantity and length, so a rough material cost is one phone call to a supplier away. That's enough to budget a project or check a manufacturer's quote before committing to it.
The calculator applies the same rise-over-run geometry truss engineers use to lay out chord and web lengths, so the numbers here match what a truss design program would produce for the same span, pitch, and truss type. It doesn't replace a stamped drawing, a licensed truss designer or structural engineer still signs off on final member sizing, plate sizes, and bracing per ANSI/TPI 1, but the planning-stage geometry is accurate enough to build a real budget and lumber order around.
Watch out
There are six mistakes that show up most often when builders and homeowners calculate roof trusses on their own.
Span is the wall-to-wall distance the truss bridges. Siding (opens in a new tab), sheathing, or any overhang measured into that number throws off every downstream calculation.
A raised heel adds vertical distance at the truss tail, which increases attic insulation depth (opens in a new tab) and changes total roof height above the wall plate. Leaving it at zero underestimates the finished roof.
Standard, heavy, and light load categories aren't interchangeable. Tile, slate, and high-snow regions need the heavy category regardless of how the roof looks on paper, using standard load in those conditions undersizes the design.
An attic truss carries floor load in addition to roof load; a common or fink truss does not. Swapping a common truss into an attic-conversion project without upgrading chord size and connector plates is a structural mistake, not a cosmetic one.
Most 7/16" oriented strand board (OSB) (opens in a new tab) is rated for 24" on-center roof spans. Spacing trusses wider than that without upgrading sheathing thickness leaves the roof deck under-supported.
This calculator, and every planning-stage tool like it, gives estimates. Ordering lumber or scheduling a truss set without a licensed truss designer or structural engineer signing off on the final design, per ANSI/TPI 1, risks a roof that doesn't pass inspection (opens in a new tab) or doesn't hold load correctly.
All tools
This roof truss calculator is one piece of a larger toolkit. A few related calculators worth checking next:
Pick the profile you are building
Shape-agnostic, works with any truss
Guides
Beyond the calculators, a few guides go deeper into the reasoning behind these numbers:
Truss Basics
The main types of roof trusses in plain language: fink, howe, kingpost, cantilever, saltbox, raised-tie and more, with a comparison table.
Read the guideBuild Guides
How to build a roof truss step by step: setting the jig, cutting chords, gusseting joints, bracing, and where site-built trusses stop being safe.
Read the guideEngineering
Roof truss load capacity explained: dead, live and snow load, how tributary width sets the load per truss, what changes capacity, and what destroys it.
Read the guideAnswers
A 2x4 roof truss typically spans 22 to 34 ft without interior support, depending on truss type, pitch, and spacing. King post trusses top out around 22-26 ft, fink (W-truss) profiles reach 28-34 ft, and common or attic trusses fall in the 26-32 ft range, all using standard No. 2 lumber grades at typical residential loads. Upgrading to 2x6 chords extends every one of these ranges by roughly 4-10 ft, and final allowable span always depends on lumber grade, spacing, and snow load zone, confirmed on a stamped truss drawing.
A 20 ft span works with 2x4 lumber across every truss profile this calculator covers, including the shorter-span king post design. At 20 ft, span isn't the limiting factor for any of the six types, pitch, load category, and room use (attic vs. standard) matter more at this size. A king post truss keeps material cost lowest on a roof with no attic or vault plan; a fink truss works just as well and leaves room to extend the span later if the design changes.
Truss height equals half the span multiplied by the pitch ratio (rise divided by 12). For a 28 ft (8.5 m) span at a 6/12 pitch: height = (28/2) × (6/12) = 14 × 0.5 = 7 ft (84 in, about 2.1 m). This gives the rise from the top of the bottom chord to the peak, add wall height and heel height to get total roof height above the foundation.
Divide building length in inches by truss spacing in inches, then add one for the starting truss. A 40 ft (480 in) building at 24" on-center spacing needs 480 ÷ 24 = 20, plus 1 = 21 trusses. Round up on any fraction, and add extra pieces for gable-end trusses, hip sets, or girder trusses at openings, a manufacturer's quote accounts for these beyond the base count.
A 4/12 pitch truss costs less than steeper pitches because the shallower rise means shorter top chord members and less total lumber per truss. Moving to an 8/12 pitch or steeper increases top chord length and truss height, which typically raises material cost per truss by 10-25%, depending on span, even though the footprint and span stay identical.
Attic truss room size depends on span and pitch: a 30 ft span at an 8/12 pitch typically yields a usable room around 16-18 ft wide with 8+ ft of flat ceiling height at center, tapering to about 5 ft of headroom near the knee walls. Wider spans and steeper pitches both increase usable room size, run your own span and pitch through the attic truss selection above to see projected dimensions for your project.
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References
The standards and reference works behind the figures on this page. External links open in a new tab.
Authoritative external references
Codes and standards are revised on their own cycles. Confirm the current edition adopted in your jurisdiction with your local building department before relying on any figure.